Skin Lightening and Dark Spot Treatment with Indigenous Arabian Phytochemicals: A Review of Evidence for Natural Skin Care Products Formulation

Rabi Ilemona Ekore^1*, Osemudiamen Ronald Ekore²

¹Dhaman Primary Healthcare Centre, Kuwait
²Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

*Correspondence author: Rabi Ilemona Ekore, Dhaman Primary Healthcare Centre, Kuwait; Email: [email protected]

Citation: Ekore RI, et al. Skin Lightening and Dark Spot Treatment with Indigenous Arabian Phytochemicals: A Review of Evidence for Natural Skin Care Products Formulation. J Dermatol Res. 2025;6(2):1-8.

Copyright^© 2025 by Ekore RI, et al. All rights reserved. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.

Table 1: Indigenous plants and herbs used in traditional Arabian skin care practices.

Herb and plant-derived active substances are usually perceived as milder, safer and healthier than synthetic products for improving skin lightness and treating skin hyperpigmentation [10]. Not all the examined plants and herbs possessed skin lightening ability, however, all the plants reviewed possessed different types of compounds that are beneficial for skin care. Evidence from CosIng, confirmed only licorice extract to possess direct skin bleaching properties [9]. Findings from a study, however, demonstrated Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin to have shown potential as skin whitening agents in cosmetic applications, with potential benefits for brown and dark pigmented spots [11]. Although not necessarily skin-lightening/brightening, important adjunct functions possessed by the other listed plants and herbs included skin conditioning, tonic, exfoliation, moisturizing, astringent and protection, all of which are known to indirectly support or enhance the skin lightening/brightening process [9].

Plants used in the Arabian region for skin care are potential sustainable sources of phytochemicals that can aid in the lightening of dark spots on the skin as most of the plants and herbs reported to be used for traditional dark spot treatment, skin lightening/brightening and other skin care uses were confirmed to have one or more active skincare related [8]. Bioactive phytochemical compounds with skin lightening or depigmentation properties can be grouped into major classes namely flavonoids, phenolic acids and alkaloids. Flavinoids are found in plants like frankincense and saffron. The flavonoids contained in frankincense, in combination with boswellic acids were found to reverse hyperpigmentation, which may sometimes be caused by oxidative stress, and also reduce skin inflammation levels considerably [12]. The active compounds in saffron, crocin and kaempferol, have the capacity to reduce oxidative damage and impede tyrosinase, an important enzyme  that plays a role in controlling melanin production. This process invariably results in skin brightening [13].

Phenolic acids can be found in fruits like pomegranate, licorice, apples, grapes, strawberry and tea leaves among others. Pomegranate has a rich concentration of ellagic acid, a known melanin inhibitor, which also prevents skin from developing dark spots which may be caused by exposure to UV rays among others [14,15]. The active compound in licorice is glabridin, a powerful inhibitor of tyrosinase which interferes with the synthesis of melanin in order to lighten the skin [16]. Alkaloid active substances are found in henna and black seed oil, among others. Henna is an integral feature of Arabian culture and has been traditionally used for skin and hair care, attributable to lawsone (hennotannic acid), an alkaloid component [17]. The phytochemical thymoquinone contained in black seed oil acts as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent and can reduce a variety of skin blemishes, including dark spots [18].

Apart from flavonoids, phenolic acids and alkaloids, a host of other plants and herbs found in the Arabian region contain other bioactive compounds that indirectly play important supportive roles that enhance skin lightening and dark spot treatment. For example, essential oils obtained from myrrh have regenerative and anti-microbial qualities help to improve skin tone. Similarly, rosewater, contains polyphenols and vitamin C (ascorbic acid), both of which combat hyperpigmentation [19].

Mechanism of Skin Lightening and Depigmentation by Phytochemicals

Certain skin diseases, like acne, trigger the inflammatory pathway and this leads to increased melanin deposits on the affected areas, darkening the skin even more. Mechanisms through which skin lightening occurs involve tyrosinase inhibition, and antioxidant and anti-inflammatory processes. Some phytochemicals present in the indigenous Arabian plants and herbs, like kaempferol from saffron and glabridin in licorice, inhibit the process whereby the enzyme tyrosinase converts tyrosine to dopaquinone, for example, thus mitigating the resulting hyperpigmentation or dark spots [20]. Another factor that triggers melanin production by melanocytes is exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays and this results in darkening of the skin. Antioxidant agents in the indigenous plants and herbs like phenolic acids in pomegranate and thymoquinone in black seed oil have been demonstrated to eradicate free radicals, possibly resulting in the reduction or halting of the triggered production of melanin. Finally, active compounds in the indigenous plants and herbs, like glabridin in licorice and boswellic acids found in frankincense, play roles in countering the melanin production process thus mitigating pigmentation, and ensuring a brighter and even skin tone [9,21].      

Natural vs. Synthetic Dark Spots and Skin Lightening Treatment

There is an increasing demand in the cosmetic industry for ethically sourced and environmentally friendly ingredients to be used in beauty products. The phytochemicals found in indigenous plants and herbs in the Arabian region apparently provide some of the best options capable of catering to this clamor for skincare that is 100% organic based. This is because, in comparison to the synthetic ingredients used in commercial skincare products to treat dark spots and lighten skin, the natural compounds in Arabian plants offer a solution that is considered or perceived by consumers as cleaner and gentler on the skin [22].

The two most common synthetic agents used in commercial skincare products to lighten skin and treat hyperpigmentation are hydroquinone and retinoids. Although they tend to be quite effective, they have been linked to side effects and other adverse health risks.  Hydroquinone causes the skin to develop sensitivity to UV light, skin discoloration (ochronosis), and/or acute inflammatory reaction while retinoids can result in photosensitivity, excessive skin dryness, peeling and cell damage [23]. However, the likelihood of natural compounds like ellagic acid or glabridin causing adverse skin reactions are significantly lower, thus making phytochemicals ideal for long-term use. Another advantage of compounds derived organically from indigenous plants is that they provide multiple skin benefits, such as skin firming by frankincense and inti-inflammatory effects from black seed oil, in addition to treating dark spots [24].

Limitations of the use of phytochemicals in skincare

• Inconsistent efficacy: Active substances extracted from the indigenous plants and herbs can have disparities in potency, depending on a myriad of factors ranging from prevailing weather conditions during plant growth and timing of harvest, to the extraction techniques applied. The use of synthetic versions of the ingredients, with standardized amounts of active portions usually solves this problem [25].
• Exposure to the elements: Phytochemicals tend to be highly sensitive to a variety of elements like water, heat, air and light, all of which can result in the degradation of active compounds. Prolonged exposure to these elements can result in degradation, thereby shortening the shelf-life of products formulated with the phytochemicals in question [26]
• Skin absorption rates: Absorption of organic active substances into the skin might be challenging on account of their unique molecular structures. Synthetic versions of the actives can be chemically designed to overcome this challenge [27]

Conclusion

Indigenous plants and herbs used by Arabians for skin care have actual and adjunct skin lightening and dark spot treatment benefits. With ongoing clamour for natural and/or clean beauty, the plants and herbs might have significant roles in the formulation of natural cosmetic and personal care products for dark spots treatment and skin lightening, for use by Arabians. While further scientific research is recommended to ascertain the mechanisms of action, efficacy and safety of the plants and herbs, the integration of traditional knowledge with contemporary dermatologic research may unveil novel insights into the formulation of depigmenting skincare products that could benefit Arabians as well as a broader population.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest in this paper.

Funding
None

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